2025 Spring Tour to Austria
Saturday 10 May
Saturday 10 May
The alarm bell piercingly invaded my fitful dreams at 4.45 am on a Saturday morning in the centre of London. “Gott im Himmel” I momentarily thought - until realizing I couldn’t speak German – rather than “Maldito Infierno” (in my rusty Spanish). And then it all became clear … time for another Founders’ Spring Tour but this year not in Guildford, rather on the European mainland in Austria and Germany.
Although our British Airways flight was not due to depart until 08.35 - fat chance of that happening – we had been advised (instructed) to be there two and a half hours beforehand. So, it was into an Uber which drove us through the silent streets of West London and onto the M25. The “What’s App” instructions were to check in at Gate 5 at Terminal 5. On arrival the morning suddenly seemed more comforting when we recognised the welcoming and encouraging faces of The Master and his Consort. Check-In through Security North was without incident and once we were “Airside” we started to recognize and bump into fellow tourers who mostly looked perky and ready for the adventure. Naturally, of course, our plane was delayed - due to there being a problem with re-fueling it – so we were a good thirty minutes behind schedule when we finally took to the air.
Arrivals
All the twenty-nine Tourers on the plane (Alan and Chris Ewart were already in Munich) were seated at the back of the plane and within twenty minutes shoulders had slumped and newspapers remained unread as somnolence took over. Those who were hoping there would be drink and snack service on board were informed this was not going to be the case.
On “deplaning” at Munich airport we experienced one of the frustrating downsides of Brexit with our UK passports not being compatible to be read by the E-passport scanner. So, we all had to patiently queue at the old-style passport control with officious Austrian Polizisi giving us hard stares. After an hour of this we moved over to the baggage carousel and were taken aback that our luggage had still not come through. Surely this only happens at British airports?
The Master had been concerned whether there would be a bus outside the airport to meet us. Thankfully there was but the driver could not speak English. Fortunately, Polly Swan’s practicing of German via Duolingo came in handy and soon we were on the motorway admiring the German countryside and the sleekness of their cars passing us by. Of course with a two and a half travel time to our destination there was the need for a “comfort break” en-route. Although we were all given strict instructions to return to the coach in twenty minutes some of the Tourers’ haphazard timekeeping began to become apparent. Also, the toilets required 1 euro to enter. Various Tourers had problems with the turnstile and one of the tallest of them was seen leapfrogging over.
A brief introduction from Dora
Without any further incident we finally arrived at The Wyndham Grand Salzburg Hotel where we were introduced to Dora who was to be our “chaperone” for the duration. After checking-in we had a buffet dinner in the hotel; on one table there was much entertainment due to the haphazard performance of the wine waiter who became utterly confused with our wine orders.
By now it was late after a long day, so most Tourers sensibly decided to retire for the evening. However, as always, there were a half dozen “hardcore” Founders who were still thirsty and ready to assess the calibre of the barman’s cocktail making.
Sunday 11 May
Sunday 11 May
Mirabell Palace
The second day of the Master’s Spring Tour to Austria can be summed up in one letter: S
From Sun to Steps, Sacher to Spar and Snow to Stars.
We were greeted at the start of our second day by glorious sunshine and a cloudless sky. After a leisurely breakfast, suncream and stout shoes were the order of the day as the tourers set off to explore Salzburg armed with our Salzburg Card (think Freedom Pass with museum entrance added on) which gave us unlimited travel for 24 hours. As there was, intentionally, no organised tour of the city we all did our own thing until 4pm when we met for a river cruise.
Being the setting for the Sound of Music, Salzburg has many venues used in the film from Schloss Mirabell to the red-domed convent (Nonnberg Abbey) still inhabited by 14 nuns, although the current Mother Superior is not Dame Flora Robson!
Fun Facts No1 and 2: The Abbey was founded in 712 and is the oldest continuously existing nunnery in the German-speaking world. Maria Von Trapp was a postulant there in 1924
The Tour Photographer peeled off in the afternoon to visit the Salzburger Weihnachtsmuseum
World famous as the birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Salzburg also gave us Herbert von Karajan (conductor) and Sachertorte, created in the Sacher Hotel where several famous people have stayed. However, as none of them begin with an S they don’t qualify for this report!
Fun fact No 3: the river flowing through the city is the Salzach and it, like the place itself is named after the Salt which was mined locally.
Salttown was the seat (yes, I can even get an S in here!) of Prince-Archbishops and their leadership over spiritual and sivic (!!) matters was based in the magnificent Residenz adjoining the cathedral in the Dom quarter. Architecturally it is 18th and 19th Century Baroque Austro-Hungarian Empire Central European style, as is much of the city.
Fun facts 4 and 5: The city is the 4th largest in Austria and is a World Heritage Site
Early visitors to the Mirabel gardens were entertained to a free Promenadekonzert for an hour from 10.30, filling the city with the sound of music whilst others used the bus pass to explore further afield. Past Master (PM) Matthew Farrant not only climbed a mountain, forded a stream and followed a pathway but also walked in and out of Germany in the snow a number of times without having to get his passport stamped.
Shoppers were surprised to find that most of the non-tourist shops in the historic Getreidegasse were closed but we were able to stock up on Christmas and Easter decorations (including Edelweiss) at the eponymous shop. I’m sure that Wolfgang’s mother would have been thrilled to know that the ground floor of the building in which the family lived (in Getreidegasse) and where WA was born (Mozart Geburtshaus), now houses a Spar supermarket!
The boat cruise, a welcome rest for tourers
At 16.00 we boarded a river cruiser for an upstream panoramic tour of the city from the water. We were treated to an excellent commentary by our Captain who, just before we disembarked, spun the boat to music! By now it was 16.00 going on 17.00 so we made our way back to the hotel for a snooze before departing by coach for the Fortress. We took a funicular up the mountain to the Hohensalzburg Fortress for dinner and entertainment.
Fun fact 6: the Hohensalzburg Fortress is one of the largest in Europe
The funicular ride up the mountain afforded splendid views but they were not as spectacular as those we enjoyed from the restaurant where we had dinner. Whilst dining on a traditional Austrian meal of soup, veal and dessert we drank Austrian wine admiring the snow on the mountains in the distance and the glorious sunset over the valley towards Germany.
After dinner, we started the climb to the hall where the concert was to take place. A lift carried us part of the way but the rest was on foot. We will all recall the sonorous echo of PM John Butterworth coming from ahead and out of sight intoning “more steps” every time we turned a corner. The climb was worth it, however, as we entered a wood panelled hall with what looked like stars on the ceiling. This magical venue was the setting for a wonderful concert of music by Mozart and Dvorak and featured a polka, celebrating the city’s famous son as well as the Austro-Hungarian history of the Fortress. Sitting in the magnificent hall listening to beautiful music was a moment to cherish forever.
Our descent to the coaches was down the seemingly never-ending staircases until we came out onto the terrace where an almost full moon bathed the city in a shimmering milky light making a fitting end to the evening.
Conversation on the coach back to the hotel was of the number of steps we had all achieved during the day. A swift WhatsApp poll showed Jacqui Draycott top with 20,000 steps with others close behind. Between us we must have managed half-a-million steps that day….but every one was worth it. It was a truly special day.
Sitting in the magnificent hall listening to beautiful music was a moment to cherish forever
Monday 12 May
Monday 12 May
When you're lying awake
With a dismal headache
And repose is taboo'd by anxiety
I conceive you may use
Any language you choose
To indulge in, without impropriety;
For your brain is on fire
The bedclothes conspire
Of usual slumber to plunder you:
First your counterpane goes
And uncovers your toes
And your sheet slips demurely from under you;
(Lord Chancellor’s song in Iolanthe)
Day 3 did not start auspiciously for your lowly scribe waking at 2 am freezing with a headache wondering why the hotel provided almost no bedclothes. Despite efforts to raise reception they obviously had important matters to attend elsewhere. Eventually calm ensued before breakfast. Founders were assembled eager for their cold (supposedly hot) breakfast. Some tourers learnt from the previous day to go for the deliberately cold fare and were not disappointed.
Today we were off to Innsbruck, a two hour drive through picture book countryside. A pit stop allowed tourers to catch up on their “kutchen” and coffee. Reports back from participants claimed the coffee was the “best yet.” Our guide had informed us that the toilets were free so were somewhat surprised that these “free facilities” could only be entered at a cost of 70 cents. However, this did lead to many tourers finding out what these tiny coins that they had in their pockets really meant in terms of value.
As we entered Innsbruck we could see our first visit from afar looking like a tongue licking the side of a mountain. This was the Bergisel Olympic ski jump. Designed by Zaha Hadid it was constructed in 2001 and has been described as a useable sculpture! Ski jumping started on this iconic hill back in 1925. The hill itself is important for Tyrol as about 200 years ago, the Tyroleans led by Andreas Hoff fought on this hill for their country’s freedom.
Even before we a started our ascent, we watched one of our guides “Martin” come whizzing down the slope, sailing into the air and landing safely and stopping just before going over a hill into the strategically placed cemetery conveniently straight ahead. In groups we ascended in a lift to the jump off point. Martin joined us and explained that the skis were longer than for conventional skiing and their length were determined by the height of the jumper. He was quite tall but most jumpers were shorter. When there is no snow, the so called “in run” or the run before the jumping zone, is filled with flowing water. There is a different run when there is snow (rather compacted ice) running alongside. Tourers assembled looking down the slope from the take off point as Martin prepared another jump. There was a whoosh as he took off and bird like descended before landing on the artificial grass.
Then it was up to the top looking down the full length of the jump. Those of us not good at heights stood back. While we awaited Martin’s return it was explained to us that jumps are scored on both distance jumped and technique. Children start as young as six jumping a few metres before building up more and more as they gain experience. Top jumpers are all under 35. (We were told Martin is over the top at 45). There are a number of points on the run where a jumper can start from. Less experienced jumpers start at the top to gain maximum speed while more experienced jumpers start lower down. The skis are waxed on the underside in summer and this is removed for snow.
By this time Martin had returned and prepared for another demonstration. He slid across a bench and meticulously checked his skis before planting them on the run. Leaning back a little he suddenly surged forward and was off again. At this stage our group returned to ground level where again we met Martin who answered our questions before we headed for lunch in restaurant linked with the ski jump. Lunch consisted of a couple of cheese dumplings and a massive salad. It was agreed by all that this visit had been outstanding and we are all now budding ski jumpers (at least in our dreams).
PM Rogers keeping an eye out for the pigeon that made their view of tourism quite clear on a fellow Founder
The tour now made its way to the Hotel Schwarzer Adler. A straw poll indicated that many of the tourers used the short time before walking to dinner to catch up on a little sleep. The Master’s dinner was held at the Weisses Rossl restaurant which was started in 1919 by Josef Plank and is now run by his great grandson Klaus. To start the evening the master generously asked for everyone to be served a glass of champagne (Brut Majeur, Ayala). As we sipped this, the Upper Warden proposed a toast to the master and mistress and thanked Alan on behalf of all the tourers.
After a light refreshing asparagus soup (wine: Muskateller Pfaffl Stetten) there was a choice of main courses. Using the supplied translation these were: Baked chicken breast, Grilled Char fillet and Schlipfkrapefen (stuffed noodles). These were accompanied by a Merlot-Syrah blend, Bauer-Poit, Hirischon. The pudding was a curd mousse with berries and what the menu called “spit cake!” At this stage the master thanked all those who had made the tour a success.
Tourers then used their homing instincts to find their way back to the hotel and hence the third day ended.
Tuesday 13 May
Tuesday 13 May
After a hearty breakfast on a beautiful sunny day we were introduced to Elizabeth, our energetic guide, for a walking tour of Innsbruck through the spectacular Old Town which offers a blend of medieval and baroque architecture. We made our way from the hotel to an area that housed educational buildings funded by the State for children of all ages and stopped at a lovely garden in the Spanish Consulate with wonderful artistic foundry castings in the centre.
We discovered the border between Innsbruck and the next village was marked by an elaborate arch which was built using materials from the old city walls and to enter the city, taxes were charged which remained in place until just 100 years ago. Romans had a military camp in this area and the remains of a Roman foundry were found near the restaurant we later lunched in. Close to the site of the foundry next on our itinerary, Roman ruins were found of a hot and cold swimming pool with heated walls.
Elizabeth’s family run the Grassmayr Bell Foundry, established in 1599 by their ancestors, and we were very fortunate indeed to be given a wonderful tour around it. We were privileged to witness the casting of a bell ordered by Stetson University in the States weighing 31kg and another of some 58kg destined for Rumania. The molten metal, usually 20% tin and 80% copper, is poured at 1100 degrees. This bell foundry is one of three foundries to repair damaged bells and we saw examples of cracked bells being restored to perfection.
The bells on display in various stages of completion were very ornate and we were shown the technique for casting the designs after the artist had finished her intricate work using wax. Within the foundry building the Glockenmuseum showed a film documenting the casting process for a huge bell weighing 25 tons headed for Bucharest which was sunk into an enormous pit. We learned that after casting a bell it is tradition to say a prayer that it may ring in peace. The museum was facinating and the Master and his consort were able to help answer many of the questions we had around the exhibits. There were plenty of interactive experiences to keep us amused along the way and the attractive small garden surrounded by bells of all shapes and sizes offered the opportunity for the traditional group photo!
In need of sustenance, we moved on to the Riese Haymon ‘traditionsgasthaus’ and enjoyed a typical lunch of schnitzel which energised us for a visit to several large churches, one of which was built in 1765. After an eventful experience on public transport we found our way to the Old Town which was built in the early 1400’s with beautiful architecture. Elizabeth explained that trade passed through Europe via the strategically important bridge in Innsbruck across the fast- flowing river. Bridges were few and far between in those times with the first being built in 1180 which was not very wide. Tolls were charged to go over and also to enter the city. The Ottoburg with its striking gothic architecture is one of the oldest buildings in the Tyrolean capital. It was once a residential tower and part of the city wall is (now a restaurant), marks the northern entrance to the Old Town. Nearby we visited the bridge standing there today and admired the cold torrent gushing from the alps, coloured a lovely shade of green due to the copper and silver deposits.
Some of the old buildings were built after earthquake damage and of course bombing in WWII ensured more modern buildings sprung up between the older ones in the high street. Strolling through the Old Town we admired the famous Golden Roof (Goldenes Dachl), built by Emperor Maximillian in around 1500 to impress visitors. Made of 2657 fire guided copper shingles, it shone magnificently against backdrop of the mountains.
Moving a little slower at this stage, we had a quick stop at the Court Church, Hofkirche, built in 1553 by Emperor Ferdinand as a memorial to his grandfather which houses a beautiful interior and impressive organ. We then moved swiftly on to the Tomb of Maximillian who it transpired ultimately decided his resting place would be in Vienna. Surrounding the tomb were huge bronze statues of royal relatives, including one of King Arthur. These huge, detailed pieces were very impressive and the Master remarked that if produced today they could hardly be improved upon with modern techniques.
We were totally absorbed by Elizabeth’s historical knowledge which she shared very enthusiastically and her ability to control our unruly group was as impressive as her energy levels!
Wednesday 14 May
Wednesday 14 May
On the final day Tourers arrived for breakfast with concentration etched on faces under the pressure of the coach departure at 9am sharp. With our rooms spread over 5 floors of the Black Eagle hotel served by just one small and somewhat slow elevator, delivering luggage to the front door was quite a drawn-out process. As it happened time pressure was eased by the coach pick-up point in front of the hotel being occupied by two beer and drinks delivery vans replenishing the adjacent Irish bar, arguably a more attractive use of the space for the noble burghers of Innsbruck than our coach pick-up. We were nevertheless all aboard by 0915 and on our way to Munich and the BMW museum on yet another bright sunny day.
The road out of Innsbruck provided some spectacular views of the city and splendour of the Tyrolean scenery as we passed Seefeld. We entered Germany just before 10am, a boundary marked as far as one could see solely by a Shell petrol station.
Arriving at the museum at 12 noon the party convened outside on a blindingly white piazza to be informed by our guide that the BMW board members were visiting that day and thus requiring tighter than usual security, essentially that all bags and jackets had to be deposited in lockers. Finally entering the museum it was a relief to discover that the exhibits followed a broadly downhill trajectory.
As far as this writer could follow the early history of BMW, it began as an aero engine producer in 1917 under the name of RAPP which was quickly changed to Baeyerische Motoren Werke. Its designs were driven by minimising weight and that remains a key element in all products. In the field of personal transport they started making motor bikes in 1923 always with a mechanical transmission and never a chain. Their first car was an Austin 7 built under licence but with their own engines (Austin 7 M series??) which started in 1923. An open top version was added in 1930. Their first 6-cylinder car came in 1934. There was one room in which many of their coach built open-top models of the 1950s and 60s were exhibited causing many a wistful look by Tourers.
It was, however, quite clear that from the mid-1930s the company was almost completely focussed on aero engine manufacture and they were the main engine supplier to the Luftwaffe before and throughout the second world war. There was also a room devoted to BMW’s use of forced labour throughout the war.
Turning to the post war years the model development of BMW motorbikes and series 3 and 5 cars were presented in separate exhibitions from the originals through to current models. All had increased in size quite substantially over the last 60 years or so. There was also modest mention of their Mini production since 2001, which came out of BMW’s acquisition of Austin Rover in 1994. With the acquisition of the Mini marque one sensed car production at BMW had come full circle from its origins with the Austin 7. Sadly there was scant mention of Rolls Royce save that BMW supplied the engine for its new electric version.
The visit ended for most Tourers outside the museum on the white piazza enjoying some refreshment and contemplating the cars of their dreams.
On the short ride to Munich airport everyone was able to express their fulsome appreciation to our delightful guide and tour problem solver. It also gave us all the chance to express thanks to The Master, the Mistress and Eloise for what had been a delightful and most entertaining tour.